The Bavarian-Czech Border: Forgotten Woods & Lost History
Ancient Celtic mysteries and abandoned forest settlements along the untouched Bavarian-Czech borderlands
There is a specific kind of magic reserved only for those willing to leave the beaten path. While the masses crowd around famous overlooks and paved national park viewpoints, a world of forgotten earth, towering canopies, and silent beauty waits just a few miles away. This isn't just a hike; it's an escape into the wild as it was meant to be experienced.
The Lost Settlements
Near the Bavarian–Czech border, it is easy to overlook that entire villages once stood among these forests and meadows. Moss-covered clearings, faint stone foundations, and quiet glades emerge between the trees, creating an atmosphere of mystery. Standing among these traces, the landscape feels both peaceful and strangely absent, as though the forest is slowly erasing its own memories.
Scheureck, Oberlichtbuchet, and Unterlichtbuchet were once thriving villages along the Bavarian–Bohemian border. After World War II, the region was dramatically reshaped: most of the German-speaking inhabitants were expelled, and many border villages were abandoned or deliberately cleared. Today, these forgotten places stand as quiet reminders of communities lost to war, displacement, and the changing borders of Central Europe.
Walk slowly and look for old fruit trees, stone walls, or unusual clearings—subtle clues that reveal where homes once stood before the forest reclaimed the landscape.
Heathen Stones (Heidensteine)
Rising above the former settlement of Oberlichtbuchet (Horní Světlé Hory), the Heathen Stones are among the most intriguing sites in the Šumava region. Perched on a natural rocky outcrop, these striking stone formations are often described as the "Stonehenge of the Bohemian Forest."
According to local tradition, the stones are ancient Celtic menhirs that may have served as an astronomical observation site. They are associated with the summer and winter solstices, and legend holds that during the summer solstice a ray of sunlight passes through the gap between the stones, illuminating a spot behind them where rituals may once have taken place. A small basin beneath the rocks is also believed to have played a ceremonial role.
Adding to their mystique, the Heathen Stones are surrounded by stories of healing and spiritual powers, attracting visitors seeking both history and a sense of wonder.
Nature & History Walk
Discover the magic of the Bavarian Forest on this easy-to-moderate hike that beautifully combines nature and history. Perfect for those seeking wild natural landscapes and a glimpse into the past, this route follows quiet forest paths through a remarkable borderland landscape.
Starting near the small village of Hinterfirmiansreut on the edge of the Czech Šumava National Park, the route crosses the border into meadows and forests shaped by the natural cycle of growth and decay.
Along the way, attentive hikers can discover the haunting traces of former settlements. Fragments of pottery, old household items, stone walls and the remains of dwellings offer glimpses into the lives of the people who once called this area home. Hidden among young trees and the roots of fallen forest giants, these relics bring the region’s history to life. This rewarding hike offers a truly memorable journey through the natural beauty and cultural heritage of the Bohemian Forest.
Into the Šumava Wilderness
The Šumava Biosphere Reserve is a vast protected landscape in southwestern Czechia, located within the Bohemian Forest (Šumava) along the borders with Germany and Austria. At its heart lies Šumava National Park, the largest national park in the Czech Republic, covering more than 680 square kilometres. Together with the surrounding Šumava Protected Landscape Area and additional conservation zones, it forms one of the largest and most biodiverse protected regions in Central Europe.
The reserve is renowned for its extensive forests, mountain ridges, peat bogs, glacial lakes, and rich wildlife. Stretching approximately 70 kilometres along the border, it occupies parts of the South Bohemian and Plzeň regions. Across the German border, Šumava National Park connects directly with the neighbouring Bavarian Forest National Park, creating the largest continuous protected forest area in Central Europe. This unique cross-border wilderness provides an important refuge for native species while also offering outstanding opportunities for hiking, cycling, wildlife observation, and nature-based tourism.
Getting There
The easiest starting point for exploring this area is the parking area at the Bavarian–Czech border near the small German village of Hinterfirmiansreut. Visitors can also begin in Hinterfirmiansreut itself, where several hiking trails lead into the forests and meadows of the Šumava region.
Crossing into the Czech Republic, the landscape quickly reveals the wild character of the Bohemian Forest. Quiet woodland paths, open clearings, and traces of former settlements offer glimpses into the region's natural beauty and complex history. Among the highlights are the lost villages of Scheureck, Oberlichtbuchet, and Unterlichtbuchet, as well as the mysterious Heathen Stones (Heidensteine), which rise above the former settlement of Oberlichtbuchet.
Whether you choose a short walk or a longer circular hike, the area rewards slow exploration. Sturdy footwear is recommended, particularly after rain, as forest paths can be uneven and muddy. Allow plenty of time to enjoy the peaceful scenery, fascinating history, and unique atmosphere of this corner of the Bohemian Forest.
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